Ripsaw Revelations

There was no way around it–I was not able to continue with the milling without a ripsaw. I rigged the saw vise to the workbench, then threw the blade from the old dogmeat 26″ Disston D-7 that I’d “cleaned up” (a few months ago) into that vise:

My expectations were kind of low. Though waxed and now rust-free, this blade is badly pitted and slightly bent at one place. It had been a chore just to get the stupid handle off. And the 7 TPI-pattern teeth were a horror story–badly deformed, uneven sizes, previously filed to crosscut profile, fairly wide set… you name it. The pic above is after jointing. Here’s a fuzzy close-up that should give you an idea of how crappy the teeth were:

Using a zero-degree rake angle, I worked my way across the saw, taking just one stroke at a time. I had to make four passes to get all of teeth even, so that’s four strokes per tooth. I ended up with this:

I left the set as it was; the filing had eased it a little.

This sharpening session was much easier than my earlier experiences. There were considerable improvements: I have the workbench now, so the vise was much more secure. The location afforded a lot more light; it was much easier to see the tips of the teeth. And it was much more comfortable to work at that height instead of the previous ridiculous situation of sitting on the floor.

I still had my doubts because the saw wasn’t in great shape to begin with. Of course, this was on purpose, because I wasn’t going to mess up one of my good saws on my first try at rip filing. But whenever you get a new toy, you want to play with it, so I put the handle back on, clamped a douglas fir 2×4 to the bench, and tried it out.

Gee-hose-a-phat. That thing split apart the 2×4 like it was nothing at all. Disston ads used to say stuff like “Zing!” And that’s exactly how it felt.

Unbelievable. Hmm. I have two other ripsaws waiting over there… a monster Disston No. 7, and the Winchester that I described a long time ago. Did I mention that those two are straight and have no pitting? Oooooooh.

[edit: Actually, the Winchester is a crosscut saw.]

First complete saw

Last week, I finally finished off that Jackson backsaw that I’d been working on since before the dawn of history. Here’s what it looks like when all was said and done:

Skipping back a few entries, this is what it looked like before I did any work:

As you may recall from the last episode, I messed up badly and had to reshape the teeth before I got to the final stage of pointing (sharpening/filing the fleam). But finally I got to print out my tricky-dicky PostScript fleam guide and use it properly. Here’s how it looks in use:

All you do is align the file over each line and take a few strokes. This picture was shot after the first half of the teeth were done, so you can see how every other tooth is a little shorter. It evened out very nicely, just as it was supposed to, and when viewed end-on, the “valley” that you’re supposed to see between a crosscut saw’s teeth was there. Fantastic.

The tip of this saw isn’t in good shape. There’s a kink in it, and the teeth are especially uneven there. Because it’s only about an inch and a half of steel, I’m considering taking the moderately drastic measure of hacking off the tip. I likely already would have, except that I don’t have a machinist’s vise yet.

I didn’t do anything to the handle of this saw, either. Unfortunately, it’s shot; it’s soft almost all the way through, making it hard for the sawnuts to get a grip. The sawnuts are also in bad shape. So I just put it back together so that it wouldn’t be too loose. There’s no point in fussing with it any more; if I want to improve the handle, I’ll need to make a new one. (This is not a bad idea, because I like the shape of the handle and have this fantasy of eventually making my own saws.)

Well, so much for the saw’s looks. A more important question is, “How does it cut?” I’m happy to report that it’s great. Due to its somewhat aggressive rake angle and the relatively low number of teeth per inch, there is moderate tearout, but it saws quickly and with very little effort.

For some reason, I don’t particularly expect to use this saw much. It should be fine for cutting smaller boards down to size in a miter box, and for cutting down the shoulders of tenons, but it’s too small for large boards, and because it’s a crosscut saw, it’s useless for sawing down the cheeks or anything else that’s a rip operation. That’s fine, though. My next two saw projects really ought to be full rip and crosscut handsaws.

I’m a little relieved that my two candidates for those two saws are in much, much better shape than this thing when it started out…

One step forward, one step back

I got all “high-tech” on the problem of pointing the teeth in my Jackson backsaw, thinking that I could maybe do something a little differently because I know the PostScript programming language. So I wrote a program to image a fleam angle guide, and spent last night getting my infuriating printer to work.

I couldn’t resist the urge to tweak the program a little while I was at work, so I was really excited to come home, print out the guide and try it out.

Unfortunately, I was in full bonehead mode. I put the guide on backwards and promptly screwed up the shape of my teeth. So I had to reshape and reset the teeth. Not that this was a bad thing; the teeth near the front of the saw were a little messed up. However, the file I was using is now history; I’ll need to get another one or two tomorrow.

I’d mentioned earlier that setting the sawteeth was a royal pain in the ass. Perhaps this was a “happy accident” today, because setting the teeth went a lot faster today due to this setup:

The first thing that helped here is that I printed out my pointing guide with a fleam angle of zero degrees and taped it to the saw, effectively making it a setting guide. This helped out a lot. No more squinting, trying to figure out if I was on the right tooth; just point at the next line, squeeze, and move on.

The other thing (and this is a big duh for me) is that I put the damn thing in the saw vise this time. Why I didn’t earlier is beyond me.

First sawtooth shaping

I knew that I would need to shape the teeth of some of my saws sooner or later in order to sharpen them properly. I decided to start with the Jackson backsaw that I’d de-rusted earlier, again figuring that I’d only be out $1.99 if I messed it up.

The teeth were at 11 points per inch, but very badly shaped in some parts, especially the tip. So I started with jointing. I don’t have a saw jointer, but you can just use a mill file without a handle. Maybe I ought to buy or make a jointer, though; it’s hard to get a good grip.

I decided to set the rake angle at around 20 degrees, a moderately aggressive cut for a crosscut saw. To make a rake guide, I cut out a chunk of yellow-poplar and drilled a hole in the side (as recommended by most saw-sharpening guides).

It turned out surprisingly well, especially considering that this was my first attempt. The teeth are reasonably uniform, and it certainly looks much better than it used to. It seems that it is important to take only a few strokes at a time with the file, going over the teeth several times until they start to look alike. However, due to the poor initial shape, I did remove a significant amount of steel to get to this stage.

Next up for this saw is setting and creating the fleam angle. Hopefully, I’ll have gotten the handle in decent shape at that point, so I can test it out right away.