<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><rss version="2.0"
	xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/"
	xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"
	xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"
	xmlns:sy="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/syndication/"
		>
<channel>
	<title>Comments on: Bookshelf: The 60-Year Dovetail</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.galoototron.com/2010/03/03/bookshelf-the-60-year-dovetail/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.galoototron.com/2010/03/03/bookshelf-the-60-year-dovetail/</link>
	<description>Woodworking with Hand Tools</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Sat, 28 Jan 2012 04:35:00 +0000</lastBuildDate>
	<sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod>
	<sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency>
	<generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=3.2.1</generator>
	<item>
		<title>By: Brian</title>
		<link>http://www.galoototron.com/2010/03/03/bookshelf-the-60-year-dovetail/comment-page-1/#comment-591</link>
		<dc:creator>Brian</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 05 Mar 2010 19:12:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.galoototron.com/?p=671#comment-591</guid>
		<description>I suppose that I prefer using the T-bevel because of the consistent angles. Somehow that&#039;s important to me, at least on joints that I have to look at all of the time. Perhaps I would feel differently about dovetails for drawers, or something like that. But you certainly don&#039;t need the T-bevel if you can saw straight enough.

One thing I like about laying out the spacing by hand is that you can experiment with it before you cut anything. When you draw the ends out and they look decent, you&#039;re done. And then when you mark a matching set, all you have to do is mark from the first one you did.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I suppose that I prefer using the T-bevel because of the consistent angles. Somehow that&#8217;s important to me, at least on joints that I have to look at all of the time. Perhaps I would feel differently about dovetails for drawers, or something like that. But you certainly don&#8217;t need the T-bevel if you can saw straight enough.</p>
<p>One thing I like about laying out the spacing by hand is that you can experiment with it before you cut anything. When you draw the ends out and they look decent, you&#8217;re done. And then when you mark a matching set, all you have to do is mark from the first one you did.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Dan</title>
		<link>http://www.galoototron.com/2010/03/03/bookshelf-the-60-year-dovetail/comment-page-1/#comment-590</link>
		<dc:creator>Dan</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 05 Mar 2010 15:14:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.galoototron.com/?p=671#comment-590</guid>
		<description>Those look great Brian! I believe in laying out the spacing for the dovetails by eye as well. I&#039;ve also tried it without the bevel square with modest results. I think with a little practice I could do it with just the right amount of humanness.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Those look great Brian! I believe in laying out the spacing for the dovetails by eye as well. I&#8217;ve also tried it without the bevel square with modest results. I think with a little practice I could do it with just the right amount of humanness.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
</channel>
</rss>

